Syllabus: 

GS3: Awareness in the fields of IT, Space, Computers, Robotics, Nano-technology, Bio-technology and issues relating to Intellectual Property Rights.

Context: 

Recently, Italian luxury brand Prada showcased leather slippers resembling Kolhapuri chappals in its 2026 men’s spring-summer collection, which sparked controversy for its lack of credit to product’s Indian origin.

More on the News

• Kolhapuri chappals have the geographical indication (GI) tag that certifies how a product originates from a specific geographical area and possesses qualities or a reputation because of that origin.

• The manufacturers of Kolhapuri chappals are reportedly planning to move court against Prada’s allegedly unethical business practice.

• The chappal makers argue that the design of Prada’s footwear amounts to cultural appropriation and a violation of the GI tag because it is too close to the original Kolhapuri.

Kolhapuri Chappal 

• Historical Background:

• The origin of Kolhapuri Chappals dates back to 12th century when the King Bijjala of Kalyani Chalukya and his prime minister Basavanna encouraged Kolhapuri Chappal production to support local cordwainers. 
• According to historic records, Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century. 
• Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri, the name indicated the village where they were made.

• Kolhapuri chappal is a handcrafted leather sandal originating from the Kolhapur region of Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka.

• Recognition: It was awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, ensuring only authentic artisans from designated regions can use the name.

• Key Features: 

• These slippers are made from vegetable-tanned leather (buffalo, camel, or cowhide), ensuring durability

• Hand-stitched with intricate patterns.
• Flat sole with minimalistic straps (single or double cross bands).
• Natural dyes (red, brown, or black) derived from plant sources.

GI Tag Award

• A GI tag helps preserve traditional knowledge, cultural heritage, and the livelihoods of its local practitioners.

• Legal Framework: The Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, governs the registration and protection of GI tags in India. 

• Basis of GI Tag: 

• Geographical Origin Link: The product must originate from a specific place, and its quality, reputation, or characteristics must be essentially attributable to that geographical origin.
• Defined Production Standards: Detailed production methods, materials, and quality benchmarks must be specified in the application.
• Registered Proprietors & Authorized Users: Only those entities that are registered as authorized users can legally use the GI.
• Prohibition on Transferability: GI tags are non-transferable and cannot be licensed like trademarks.
• Enforcement and Monitoring: Owners and governments are expected to monitor misuse and initiate legal action against counterfeiting or false usage.
• No Generic Term Usage: A GI should not be or become a generic name for a product.

Difficulty in protecting traditional crafts

• The protection of traditional crafts is difficult primarily because the intellectual property (IP) systems that exist today, like patents, trademarks, or copyrights, were designed for individual innovation, not collective heritage.

• IP laws need identifiable creators and documentation, but traditional crafts are community-made, ancient, undocumented, and already fail key IP criteria. They also require timeless protection, unlike the limited duration of most IP rights.